Chiang Mai & Chiang Rai, Thailand 2020.

It was in our second month of travel that Covid-19 reared its ugly face in North America and Europe, but it had yet to make its way to where we were. Covid-19 had not affected our travels (yet). There had not been any lockdowns where we were, and it was only a suggestion to wear a mask in public places and airports. The biggest impacts that we saw were less tourists and some delayed flight.

We landed in Chiang Mai. There were no beaches, no ocean and with that no ocean breeze. It was hot! It was still early enough that we walked around the city and saw the Three Kings monument. This was located in the walled Old Town where the palace used to stand.

We continued walking around and saw one of the Old City Gates. The wall was crumbling and falling down, it is the last remains of the wall built for the old city.

We retired back to Hostel, lay by the pool and looked up things to do in the area. One thing that kept coming up was guided tours of the Hill Tribes. Doing some further digging we found a lot of negative reviews about these tours.

Photo Credit: V.Gray

As much as going to see the Akha, Hmong, Karen, Mein, Lahu, Palaung and Lisa hill tribes did interest us, it seemed like every other review was negative. The reviews indicated that the tour felt very fake, with people who were acting, and most tourists were hassled the entire time.

Photo Credit: V.Gray

This discouraged us from booking a tour, however this encouraged us to look at the map and take a scooter ride through the hills. An entire day was spent riding through the hills, stopping in little villages, and enjoying the scenery. There were no planned stops, we just followed the road and if something caught our eye we would pull over.

Before we got to enjoy the ride through the villages, we were pulled over by the Police. The Police had set up on the side of the road, and were pulling over anyone who looked like a tourist. Then they asked if you had an International Drivers Licence, and would fine you 500 baht ($20 CAD) if you answered no. They then gave you a piece of paper saying you had paid the fine and now were allowed to drive in Thailand (this was only good for 2 or 3 days).

The first stop we made was for lunch and to wander around a village. Walking around the village was refreshing, it was quiet and the air was clean. People were friendly, the shops were small and filled with local handmade items. It was a welcomed change from the big cities and islands of Thailand.

A village near Dam Cliff Viewpoint

Photo Credit: V.Gray

We continued through the hills riding up into Bhuping palace, driving through the village and continuing on. At this point we were about 1,676 metres up the hill. We found some temple ruins; this is when Ryan decided to go off the main road and down a beaten path.

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We continued riding and ended up at Ban Khun Chang Khan. At this point we were low on fuel, it was early afternoon, and we knew we should start looking for a route back down to Chiang Mai. Ryan took out the map and thought he had found our way back down, going a different way from where we had come.

Photo Credit: V.Gray

Normally I am all for an adventure, however we soon found out that the route Ryan chose was not going to work. We followed the road up, then came into a school yard where kids were playing soccer. Yes, we rode right into the field! We pulled off to the side and looked again, the map showed a road on the other side of the field going down through a village.

We crossed over to the road, rode through the village, (which had a total of 3 streets) and then down a steep dirt hill. This steep dirt hill flattened out for a moment before continuing down. Continuing down meant a very steep narrow path with"bumps" that looked more like bike jumps. In curiosity I have tried to look up this “road” on a map, however this road does not seem to exist anywhere.

This gets even better, we decided to turn around because the road looked unsafe. We turned around to drive back to the 3 street village and field. But the scooter would not move! I had to get off and walk up this hill, while the scooter struggled Photo Credit: V.Gray

to make it up with just Ryan. At this point it had become so ridiculous that when we met at the top, we were both laughing as I climbed back on. Of course Ryan beat me to the top, as I kept having to stop because I was laughing so hard.

We continued back down with no problems, this time only stopping a few times to let the scooter’s brakes cool down. The brakes can overheat and then stop working while going down hill. Eventually when we made it back down to Chiang Mai, we were stopped again by Police. This time we showed them the paper and moved on quickly.

We had one more full day in Chiang Mai. We had passed a zoo on our way up the hills the day before, so we spent our last day there.

The cost was $6.00 CAD each to go into the zoo. We walked the entire zoo, which took most of the day. The lack of safety measures in place was mind blowing. A small chain link fence is what stands between you and most of the animals, unless it is a lion or bigger animal, there might be a mote and a small wall as well.

Photo Credit: V.Gray

Photo Credit: V.Gray

Otherwise you can touch the animals and feed them. In the bird aviary you just walk right through and can see, hear, and touch all the birds with no barriers.

The zoo was virtually empty, which gave it a creepy, Jurassic World-like vibe. This was also a bonus, we didn’t have to wait or fight crowds to see the animals. It was a fun way to end our time in Chiang Mai.

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We took a bus to get to Chiang Rai. The cab driver who took us to the bus station was very interesting. He gave us a lesson about the Mafia in Thailand, and what was going on. He told us about the fight between Grabs, Ubers, and Taxis. These fights sometimes resulted in fist fights. Some of the Taxis are owned by the Mafia. The Taxis also have to pay a fee to wait at the airport or bus stations.

We took the bus to Chiang Rai, then from the bus station walked to our Hostel. We really liked Chiang Rai, you can walk the entire city in one day and see a lot of attractions.

We stayed at “Stay in Chiang Rai” Hostel, and it was outstanding. The owner was friendly, nice and helpful, and the location was ideal. Nice and easy walking to all the attractions, restaurants, markets, movies and shopping.

Photo Credit: V.Gray

We spent our first day walking between all the points on the map above. Stopping for lunch and a few beverages along the way.

We found that all the temples were free to enter, and the museums all had a small fee. The streets were lined with monuments and local shops. There was also a Clocktower in the centre of the city. As you walk up to the clocktower every lamp post is covered in gold. We went both during the day and at night; it does not matter what time you go to see the clock tower when the light hits it, it shines.

Photo Credit: V.Gray

Most evenings for dinner we went to the night bizarre, or we would go out to try and find the night market. The night market in Chiang Rai rotates locations throughout the city, changing every night. One night it was right out front of our hostel, which made it really easy to find. The night bizarre, however, is always in the same place.

Photo Credit: Ryan C.

Photo Credit: V.Gray

The owner of the Hostel told us we needed to go to see the White Temple and Blue Temple. We scootered out and made a day of it; going to the White Temple, Blue Temple, and the Goddess of Mercy. The White Temple has a fee to enter the grounds, and then a very long line. After the line there is another fee to enter the Temple itself.

The White Temple has pieces of glass in white plaster making it sparkle no matter what angle you look at it from or time of day it is.

We did not pay to go into the temple, instead we walked around the grounds which had 9 other buildings to see at no charge.

Photo Credit: V.Gray

The Blue Temple is exactly as you expect it to be, a blue temple. It is quite beautiful with a fountain in front, however it is small and busy. It does not cost anything to get into this temple, which is probably why it is so crowded.

Photo Credit: V.Gray

We continued onto the Goddess of Mercy, who we could see through our window at the Hostel.

Photo Credit: V.Gray

There is also a temple and pagoda beside the goddess. We did not go to the temple, instead we climbed the stairs up to the goddess. For a fee you can take an elevator to the top and look out over the rice fields, that part was closed by the time we arrived.

We wanted to mix things up a bit, after seeing a lot of temples and pagodas between Vietnam and Thailand. We took a day and went to Khon Korn Waterfall, which has no charge to enter the park or do the hike.

It's a 1.4 km hike through the bamboo jungle to the waterfall. There are several points where you do cross the river on bamboo bridges, which are a bit slippery, and up go some hills that have stairs carved into them. It is a very easy and beautiful hike, even though there are warning signs about the green pit viper snakes. We did not see any of these snakes, thankfully.

When you are around the corner from the waterfall you can hear the water crashing down.

Then you walk down a small hill to the waterfall. There is a small area that allows you to enter the water and swim..

Photo Credit: V.Gray

Ryan of course after doing the hike there, had to swim. This swim lasted all of 5 minutes as the water was very cold. The Khun Korn waterfall is one of the tallest in Thailand.

On our fourth day in Chiang Rai we spoke to the Hostel owner about booking a bus ticket to cross over into Bokeo, Laos. Originally he told us it would leave in 1 day (leaving us one day in Chiang Rai). However when we went to purchase our tickets, the bus did not leave for another 2 days. The bus schedule was Sunday, sometimes Monday, Wednesday and if needed Friday too.

We were not in a rush and took this ticket, giving us 2 more days in Thailand. We took 1 down day, hanging out at the hostel doing some research on our laptops, and going to see a movie. Photo Credit: V.Gray

Our last day in Chiang Rai we went to the Golden Triangle and Temple of Chiang Sein.

It was a 1.5 hour scooter ride to the Golden Triangle and Temple of Chiang Sein. The Golden Triangle is the point where the Mekong River meets, touching Thailand, Laos, and Myanmar.

In the past this section has been known as the trading point for gold passing hands in exchange for opium, which started less than 60 years ago.

As you look around you can see the muddy waters of Mekong River, and watch the boats pass between the three countries.

We kept touring around the area, making a few stops in the town before turning around to head back.

We would learn the next day that we had miscalculated our stay in Thailand by a day. But that Photo Credit: V.Gray would be tomorrow’s worry, as we did not know that yet.

Tomorrow Laos! Cheers!

A map of Thailand and places we have travelled.

**Please note that all opinions and views expressed in this post are my own, from my own experiences. If you would like to see more pictures follow me on Instagram vikki.gray

This post is edited by E.Gray Editing.(https://www.egrayediting.com )**